| In Graham Forsdyke's article entitled, A Brief History of the Sewing Machine, he clearly states that the sewing machine is one of the most important machines ever devised. Yet, like most inventions, the history of the sewing machine is a bit murky as to who really invented the machine first. It was actually series of events and inventions that evolved into one of the most popular home machines used. Keep in mind that before the sewing machine was invented all garments, home decor items and even grain sacks were sewn by hand! The time line runs something like this: In 1755 in London a German immigrant, Charles Weisenthal, took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. However, there was no mention of a machine to go with it. In 1790 an English cabinetmaker, Thomas Saint, patented a machine which used an awl that made a hole in leather and then allowed a needle to pass through. No one is really sure that a machine was ever made, only that Saint patented the idea. It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's drawings it would not work without considerable modification. Around 1810 in Germany the inventor Balthasar Krems developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be proven because Krems never applied for any patents. Four years later, an Austrian tailor named Josef Madersperger received a patent for an experimental series of machines he tinkered with. He was still working on the invention in 1839, aided by grants from the government, but he failed to get all the elements together successfully in one machine. In 1804 more patents were given. Thomas Stone and James Henderson from France received a patent for a machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing. Another patent was given to Scott John Duncan for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of either invention. 
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America came into the picture in 1818 when a Vermont churchman named John Adams Doge, with his partner John Knowles, produced a device which, although making a reasonable stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before labor intensive resetting was needed. In 1830, the French government granted a patent to Barthelemy Thimonnier who used a barbed needle for his machine. In less than 10 years after the granting of his patent, Thimonnier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that if his machines were successful, they would replace hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work. Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine and causing Thimonnier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastly improved machine, and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimonnier could expect little help from the police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage. He produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer machines for sale on a commercial basis, and ran the first garment factory. For all of his accomplishments, he died in the poor house in 1857. American Walter Hunt invented the first machine which did not try to emulate hand sewing in 1833. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an eye-pointed needle as used today. Again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce short, straight seams. Nine years later another American, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, no financial backers came forward. Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1884 when Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which was originally designed for the production of lace, but essentially was a working sewing machine. Probably because of misfiling at the patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine. Most Americans will agree that the sewing machine was invented by a Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe, who completed his first proto-type in 1894, just a short time after Fisher. A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his invention. He even arranged a competition between his machine and the finest hand sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for it to replace hand sewing. Despite months of demonstrations, Howe never made a sale. Desperately in debt, Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only one backer, a corset maker named William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine. The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements, and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers, including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines. All of which seemed to be in conflict with the Howe patents. A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents and fought as a unit to protect their monopoly. Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer aggressive sales tactics. The story does have a somewhat happy ending. Both Singer and Howe became and ended their days as multimillionaires. The sewing machine helped give women more time for other chores and interests. Clothing, curtains, fabric furniture, shoes and so many more practical, everyday items no longer took days and weeks to complete. The world was on its way to being industrialized and the sewing machine, although a tidy investment, could be owned by all the classes. |
| A sewing machine can last a lifetime if you are careful before and after your purchase. This shouldn't be an impulse purchase, nor should you allow a sales person to talk you into a machine you don't want. There are dozens of different manufacturers offering dozens of different types of machines. When you take your time and do your homework, you can find the perfect machine for your needs. Many sewing enthusiasts start with a very basic machine and over the years upgrade to more complex machines. There are some basic features that should be part of any sewing machine you try. Other more advanced machines will have additional features. Use the following list of characteristics as your checklist of features you want in a sewing machine. | The Basics |  | Machine starts and stops smoothly and is jam-proof if you sew off the edge of fabric. | | Bobbin is simple to wind and easy to insert into bobbin case. | | Bobbin doesn't vibrate while sewing and feeds thread evenly. | | Automatic bobbin winder shut off which prevents bobbin from overfilling. | | Threading of machine is easy to do and easy to remember. | | Needle is easy to remove and insert. | | Fabric feeds evenly under needle. | | Variety of utility stitches to join seams, overcast edges, topstitch, hem, sew over elastic, sew stretch fabrics and darn. | | Variety of easy-to-change throat plates, feet and attachments for use with utility stitches. | | Needle plate markings to guide seam widths. | | Accurate reverse stitching. | | Controllable stitch lengths and widths. | | Adjustable tension and pressure knobs. | | Sews over extra-sheer fabrics without puckering. | | Variations in speed controls for stitching accuracy. | | Light that illuminates needle area without shadows. | | Thread cutter. | | Foot or knee pedal is easy and comfortable to operate. | | Sturdy one-piece body construction. | | Sews over two or more layers of thick fabric. | | Easy to clean, limited amount of oiling. | | Instruction book is easy to understand. | 
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| | Additional or Special Features | | Bobbin has large holding capacity, eliminating frequent rewinding. | | Limited amount of readjustments when changing stitch types. | | Stitch memory for self-repeating stitch patterns. | | Built-in buttonholer versus buttonholer attachment. | | Feed control adaptation for darning and embroidery. | | Multiple needle position control, increasing stitch possibilities. | | Automatic needle threader for easy threading. | | Solid-state foot control that allows slow stitching without limiting piercing power of needle. | | Free-arm for access to tubular sewing area, with a convertible flatbed surface for regular flat sewing. | | Up-down needle position switch. | | Ability to adapt to sewing at the push of a button without use of a foot or knee pedals. | | Decorative stitches and monogramming capabilities to add personal touches. | | Ability to program in more newly developed stitches. | | Holds more than one top thread for decorative stitching. | | Special attachments for specific tasks: seam guide, ruffler, quilting foot, etc. | | Ability to interface with a personal computer for special programming. | | Self-releasing reverse control. | | Stationary model in a cabinet versus portable model which also fits into a cabinet. | | Built-in carry handle or easy to carry case. | | Lightweight, portable to travel with. | Once you have a list of exactly the features you want from a sewing machine, it's time to go out and try a variety of machines before selecting just one. Ask your friends what they like about their machine and what they might want in a machine if they were going to purchase a new one. If you have Internet access, surf the Web for sewing clubs and sewing bulletin-board services to see what others think about different types of machines. It is important to shop around! But don't do all your research in one day. Take your time and really listen to the sales-person about the machines he/she is selling. Buy from an established retailer who will teach you how the machine works. Many retailers offer free classes for beginners. If you aren't a beginner ask the retailer if you may take a more advanced course. Buy the best-quality machine that you can afford without going over your budget. Your skills and interests will build as you learn more about sewing, so think ahead as you consider different machines. Take several types of fabric scraps with you to try on the different machines. Try several different stitches and techniques on each machine for delicate and heavy fabrics. Do you plan to sew using silk? Or denim? Or fake furs? Bring those fabrics with you! Don't let the salesperson do the sewing. You should be the one to sit down and try the machine. It's the best way for you to get a feel of the machine and decide for yourself if you will enjoy sewing with it. Narrow down your choices to the top three machines you liked. Step back from the decision process for a day or two and then review your top choices. Then go for it! Pick your top choice and make your purchase. If the store offers free classes, do take advantage of this service. The best way to really learn the possibilities for you and your future sewing projects is to learn as much as you can about the machine you now own. Most of all, enjoy your new sewing machine knowing you took the time to purchase wisely! |
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