| Mirror-Image Shaping Many knitters are aware that decreases can be made to be left-leaning or right-leaning, but did you know that increases can be mirror images of each other as well? Try making the following practice swatch. By following the instructions exactly, you will be making mirrored increases on either side of two center stitches in the first part, then mirrored decreases in the second part. When you are finished, you will have a new arsenal of shaping tools at your disposal.  | | Click here for a larger view. | PRACTICE SWATCH Materials: - Smooth yarn
- Needles in the appropriate size for the yarn
- Two markers
CO 8 sts. Place markers on either side of 2 center sts. Work 3 rows St st, ending with a WS row. A. Yarn over increase K to marker, yo, k2, yo, k to end. Purl, treating the yos as sts. Variation K to marker, yo, k2, yo, k to end. P to yo, p into back loop of yo, p2. Reverse lie of yo on LH ndl, p into front loop of yo, p to end. Work 2 rows St st. B. Knit into front-and-back increase K to st before marker, k into front and back of next st, k1, sl 1 as to purl. Remove marker. Sl st back to LH ndl. K into front of st, but do not drop. Replace marker. K into back of same st, k to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. C. Lifted bar increase (sometimes called make 1 increase) K to marker. Insert LH ndl point from back to front to pick up horizontal strand. With RH ndl, k into the front loop of this strand. K2. Insert LH ndl point from front to back to pick up horizontal strand running between the two ndls. With RH ndl, k into the back loop of this strand. K to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. D. Cast-on increase (sometimes called make 1 increase) K to marker, thumb/loop co 1 st, k2, thumb/loop co 1 st in the opposite direction, k to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. E. Lifted increase K to marker. Insert LH ndl point from back to front into 2nd purl bump down below last st on RH ndl and lift. K into back loop of this strand. K2. Insert RH ndl into purl bump of st below next st on LH ndl and knit it. K next st on LH ndl. K to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. SINGLE DECREASE PAIRS F. SSK/K2 tog decrease on either side of center 2 sts K to 2 sts before marker, sl next 2 sts as to knit, insert LH ndl back into these 2 sts as to knit, k2tog through back loop. K2, k2tog, k to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. G. SKP/K2 tog decrease on either side of center 2 sts K to 2 sts before marker, sl 1 st as to knit, k1, pass sl st over, k2, k2tog, k to end. Purl. Work 2 rows St st. BO. 
Pattern Reading Tips  For beginning knitters, reading patterns is often daunting. Not only are there a number of abbreviations, but also there are strange new terms which seem to be in their native tongue, but do not make sense to someone unfamiliar with the knitting vocabulary.
In addition, some pattern instructions are written better than others. Using well-written patterns for the first few projects will go a long way toward helping the novice knitter become proficient with following directions. As in your high school English class, punctuation matters. Paying attention to it can help you read the pattern. Periods are usually at end of row. Items in brackets are repeated. | What good pattern instructions have in common: |  | Gauge is given over at least 4 inches in pattern stitch, with needle size stated. | | Complete size information is given, including schematics if applicable. This information should include finished chest measurements, body length, sleeve length and neck width. | | A complete list of materials needed, including yarn, type of needles (dpn, straight, circular) and needle size used to obtain gauge in model sweater, and any other extras such as tapestry needle, cable needle, stitch holder, crochet hook, buttons, trims. | | Complete information on yarn, including amount in yards/meters, fiber content, size (worsted, etc.). | | Easy to read type, using standardized abbreviations. | | List of abbreviations, especially any special abbreviations/techniques. | | Pattern stitch multiple, if applicable. | | Special instructions for finishing, if applicable. | | What most pattern instructions won't tell you: | | How to make a gauge swatch. | | What cast-on to use. You may want to choose your cast-on depending on what will be happening in the first row of your pattern. Long-tail cast-on results in the next row being a (purl) row; cable cast-on results in the next row being a knit row. Some cast-ons are more appropriate for ribbing or lace than others. | 
Right on the Button The right button can make or break a sweater, but choosing the right one can be difficult. Here are some hints for finding that perfect button. | 1. | Try to purchase your buttons before making the button bands; that way you can pick the button without fear that the buttonhole will be too large or too small. Once the buttons are chosen, you can make the buttonhole to fit the button. | | 2. | Take along your gauge swatch when button shopping. If you have time, try knitting a small buttonhole band onto the swatch, using a couple of different sizes of buttonholes. At the store, you'll be able to "try on"the buttons to see how they look on your sweater. | | 3. | Decide whether your garment needs buttons that stand out as part of the overall design, or whether they should be unobtrusive. You may want to match the yarn color, or you may find that a good-looking contrasting color is easier to find. | | 4. | Scale is important; tiny buttons belong on fine-gauge garments. Chunky buttons belong on outerwear and garments knit at larger gauges. | | 5. | Thicker fabrics require shank buttons. Sewn shanks can be added to buttons when they are sewn on. | | 6. | To sew on buttons, use sewing or embroidery thread in a matching color. If the knit fabric needs reinforcement, place a small button on the wrong side of the fabric. Sew both buttons on at the same time through the fabric. You may also use a small piece of felt as backing. |  | | Click here for a larger view. | | | 7. | Mix button styles on one sweater. A great use for those beautiful one-of-a-kind buttons in your grandmother's button box! | Make your own. Purchase a button-covering kit and cover it with matching fabric. Use Fimo or Sculpy modeling clay to make machine-washable buttons. Or try one of these:  | | Click here for a
larger view. | Crocheted Ring Button Materials - Purchased "bone ring"from the craft store
- Yarn
- Appropriate size crochet hook
Leaving a 6-inch tail, sc around the ring as many times as you can. If you have a big ring, you may need to make an additional round or two of sc.
Cut yarn, leaving 8-inch tail.
With a tapestry ndl, thread longer tail though every sc around and pull tight, bringing sts to inside of ring. If necessary, take a couple of sts across to tighten center.
Use ends to sew onto sweater.  | | Click here for a
larger view. | Crocheted Stuffed Button Materials - Yarn
- Appropriate size crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
Leaving an 8-inch tail, make a sl knot on the hook.
Ch 2, join with sl st to first ch.
Ch 1, 8 sc in ring, join.
Ch 1, sc into sl st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, join with sl st. (12 sc)
Sc in each sc, join.
Ch 1, *pull up a loop in next 2 sc, yo and pull through all loops on hook (dec made); rep from * around.
Leaving a 10-inch tail, end off and cut yarn.
Stuff scraps of yarn into ball.
With tapestry ndl, thread 10-inch tail through all sts on last row and pull tight.
Thread 8-inch tail down through center of button and use both ends to sew button to fabric.  | | Click here for a
larger view. | Knit Button Materials: - Yarn and needles used in the garment.
Using a provisional cast-on, CO about 8 sts. The number of sts co will vary depending on your gauge -- experiment!
Work a few rows in St st.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail. Thread tapestry ndl with cut end, pull ndl through sts on ndl, pull tight. Pull same end through loops at co edge. Stuff scraps of yarn into ball, pull end tight. Use ends to sew button to fabric. 
Summer Sweater Sag Prevention Cotton, linen, ramie and silk yarns are favorites for summer knitting because of their breathability and drapeability, but their nonresilient properties can present special challenges to knitters. Try these tips to prevent your garments from becoming stretched out: |  | | Click here for a larger view. | Choose a yarn that has a natural fiber blended with acrylic, wool, or Lycra. Just a small amount of one of these additional fibers can improve the elasticity of the yarn. | | Choose sport or double knitting (DK) weight yarns for summer wear. The weight of a cotton sweater worked in worsted weight yarn can put extra strain on the cuffs, waistband and neck. | |  | | Click here for a larger view. | If you do use heavier cotton, be sure to make strong shoulder seams and to bind off the back neck stitches to help support the weight and keep the neck ribbing in shape. | |  | | Click here for a larger view. | Plan ahead: knit a swatch at least 6-inches square in your chosen yarn and stitch pattern, and also a swatch in ribbing. Wash and dry the swatches according to the yarn label. Cotton and linen can change gauge dramatically after washing, and you may find that the ribbing method you were planning to use will not hold up well when the yarn is laundered. | | Choose an alternative to ribbing. Lace borders and crocheted edgings are two treatments not subject to stretch that are often used to finish the edges of a sweater. | | For knitting rib, use a needle for the ribbing that is several sizes smaller than you would normally use. Be careful not to make the cast-on too tight, because a tight bottom edge can be uncomfortable and can break under strain. Tubular cast-on works well for cotton garments. | |  | | Click here for a
larger view. | Try using fewer stitches than you need for the body of the sweater, but not so few that the ribbing is required to stretch out of shape to fit the wearer. This won't work in designs where the ribbing flows into the main stitch pattern without interruption. | | Try working an elastic thread into the ribbing as you knit. I prefer to weave the thread across the wrong side of the ribbing rather than knit it together with the main yarn. Elastic thread is available in 1mm and 3mm sizes and in a range of colors to approximate your yarn color. | | Work a twisted rib: *k1 through back loop, p1, rep from *. | Summer Sweater Sag Repair  | | Click here for a larger view. | If your best-laid plans don't work, or you have a commercially made sweater with stretched-out cuffs, that marvelous colored elastic comes in handy. Thread a tapestry needle with one end of elastic thread; the 3mm size is best for this job. Work at least three rows on the wrong side of the ribbing; one in the row above the cast-on, one in the top row, and one in the middle. You may need to use an additional row or two of elastic, depending on the weight of the yarn and the length of the ribbing. Now choose your method: | Run the needle under one half of each knit stitch as it appears on the wrong side of the ribbing, and pull up gently until ribbing is slightly smaller than desired measurement. Secure both ends in seam. | | Backstitch through half of every knit stitch across, pulling gently after each stitch. Secure both ends in seam. | Next week's e-mail is all about needles. This is an area where even experienced knitters can get confused. You'll get the information and tips you need to make a smart choice for your next project. PS -- Tell your friends to visit us to sign up for educational newsletters like this. |
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