| Last week we learned about the history of the sewing machine and what to look for when you buy a sewing machine. This week we'll take an in-depth look at sewing machines. We'll discuss what needle to use, what foot works best for each project and most important, how to keep your machine in tip-top condition so that you enjoy it for years and years. | | In this issue
| | | | Which Sewing Machine Needle To Use?
| | Machine needle manufacturers use a slightly different numbering system than that used by hand sewing needles. Most manufacturers will use a letter to categorize needles. The letter symbolizes the fabrics. Here's a handy guide to help you figure out what it all means! - H: universal, all-purpose, general sewing
- HS: stretch fabrics
- HSUY: heavy stretch fabrics, elastics
- HJ: denim
- HM: delicates, silks, microfibers
- N: topstitching, novelty threads
- HE: embroidery, novelty threads
- HQ: quilting -- also piecing
- RH: basting, long stitches
- HLL: leather
| | Put Your Best Foot Forward
| | So many feet come as standard equipment with most sewing machines on the market today that it can get confusing. For years the only pressure foot I ever used was the one for straight stitching, until I loaned my machine to a friend. The machine came home with a different foot and I wasn't at all sure I liked it! Now I had to get out the manual that came with my machine and blow off the dust that had settled on the book from years of neglect. I don't believe in manuals too much. I want user-friendly machines that are easy to figure out by pressing a few buttons and observing the results. But I did find out some amazing things as I flipped through the guide of pressure-feet illustrations in my handy-dandy manual. Fascinating things! My sewing machine was capable of more than just hemming a pair of shorts! With the right foot, my machine could sew a multitude of gloriously creative stuff! I'd like to share my new insight. Just remember that different manufacturers may use slightly different names, but the job or specialty technique of each different foot is basically the same. Also note that feet come with a long, slanted or short shank. Some feet are interchangeable. For example, the zigzag foot can be used while sewing a straight stitch. Some feet aren't interchangeable. For example, you will break your needle if you try to sew a zigzag stitch using a straight-stitch foot. Long, slanted and short shanks are not interchangeable, but adapters are available. Learn which type of shank is used on your machine. Here's a list of different feet and what each is used for. Braid Foot
Use the braid foot to add decorative cording to fabric with any kind of braid, cord or serger threads. Both the narrow and wide braid feet have a hook on the front of the foot slip, and a narrow, tunneled groove underneath. The cord is laced through the hook and under the foot slip into the tunneled groove. A braid-guide attachment, a loopy wire that attaches near the presser foot shank, keeps the braid untangled and taut while stitching. 
Buttonhole Foot
Click here for a larger view. | Buttonhole Foot
The buttonhole foot is recognizable as a rectangular-shaped foot with thin extensions at either end, a raised square on top of the foot and small grooves on the bottom of the foot. This foot eases the creation of buttonholes and also works well when sewing in invisible zippers. Eyelet Foot
This is a very specialized foot, but if this is the task you want to complete then this foot sure saves time and energy. The H-shaped flat foot has a small cylinder shape attached to the top surface and is used to create eyelets. Gathering Foot
The gathering foot is a small L-shaped foot with a slot on the bottom side. The bottom of the foot is higher at the front than in the back, causing the foot to rock when attached to the machine. The rocking motion creates instant gathers. Set the stitch length on a higher setting to get more gathers and on a normal setting to get fewer gathers. Lay the fabric underneath the foot to gather a single layer of fabric, or use the side slot to stitch one piece of fabric to another. Narrow Bias Binder Foot
This foot is used to apply purchased bias binding or hand-cut bias strips. The narrow bias binding foot is distinguishable by a cone-shaped, slotted cylinder situated on the topside of the foot. In just one step, it folds and applies bias binding. 
Open-Toe Embroidery Foot
Click here for a larger view. | Open-Toe Embroidery Foot
This foot provides an excellent view of your work, allowing clear visibility of decorative and satin stitches between the widely spaced toes. The underside of the foot is grooved so stitches can easily pass under the foot. Pintuck Foot
The pintuck foot is a flat foot with grooves cut in the bottom. The pintuck foot, along with a double needle, pinches and stitches lines of fabric into narrow, raised patterns in the fabric. The number of pattern lines, and the spacing between the lines, depends on the number of grooves in the foot. Use a threegroove pintuck foot to accommodate heavier fabrics or to create wider designs. Four- and five-groove pintuck feet are better when used on lightweight fabrics or for creating more narrow patterns. Rolled Hemming Foot
This foot is used to make small double-folded hems on medium to lightweight fabrics. The width of the groove on the bottom of the foot is the width of the finished hem. The hems can be sewn with a straight, zigzag or decorative stitch. Great for scarves, tablecloths, napkins, skirts, lingerie, ruffles and curtains. Roller Foot
The roller foot is also called an even-feed foot because the metal roller evenly feeds in fabrics. Great for thick, heavy fabrics and fabric with a nap. Helps keep fabric from bunching or stretching. Ruffler Foot
This large foot has many components and is used to make evenly spaced ruffles and pleats. It works very well for large items that you want to ruffle like table cloths, skirts or curtains. Teflon Foot
Coated in Teflon, this foot allows for smooth feeding of difficult or textured fabric like leather or suede. The fabric glides under rather than being fed by a roller or tooth. It is available as both a zigzag foot or straight-stitch foot. Walking Foot
Another even-feed foot, but it uses teeth rather than a roller to feed fabric evenly to the needle. 
Zipper Foot
Click here for a larger view. | Welding Foot
A straight-stitch foot that, rather than having a small hole in the middle of the foot, has two narrow claw-like prongs. Allows you to see your straight stitch work close to the edge of the hem or seam. Zipper Foot
Used to sew in a zipper, each side resembles a straight-stitch foot cut in half. Makes the difficult task of sewing a zipper much easier! | | Sewing Machines Need TLC, Too!
| | It's easy to take your sewing machine for granted. However, to keep your machine in tiptop shape some regular maintenance is required of you as the owner. You don't have to be a rocket scientist or a mechanical genius to provide some tender loving care to your sewing machine. Keep this checklist handy whether you sew frequently or infrequently. Believe it or not, simple maintenance may be more important for sewing machines that spend most of their time in the closet, especially computerized sewing machines. It's not listed, but it's important to invest or make your own dust cover for your machine. Dust is an enemy of any mechanical machine, including your sewing machine. If your machine is not encased in a cabinet or table, then make sure you cover the entire machine with an effective dust cover. | Standard Sewing Machines |  | Keep the machine manual where it can be easily found. It is full of valuable information about each machine. Manuals usually include a section on maintenance. Read it! |  | Some sewing machines require oiling. Check with the machine's manual to see if this is required. To oil the machine, take the cap off the part of the machine that houses the thread guides, needle and presser foot. Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machines. Drip oil into the small, round holes in the throat plate. Turn the hand wheel to view which parts of the machine move. Oil the moving parts. Place a drop of oil on the needle bar, as well. Sewing machines should be oiled after every eight hours of use. Wipe any excess oil off the machine with a lint-free towel. Machines that are used infrequently should be oiled before each use. |  | When changing the light bulb in a machine, let the old bulb cool. Some machines come equipped with a light bulb sheath that fits over the bulb to loosen it. This accessory, available from fabric and notion stores, allows the bulb to be changed without waiting for it to cool. |  | Purchase good-quality thread. Less expensive, fuzzy thread creates lint that ends up inside the machine. |  | Change needles often. Dull needles can pucker seams, skip stitches or pull fabrics. Use the appropriate needle for the type of fabric you're sewing. Dull needles also break easily. Breaking a needle can throw off your machine's timing and can cause worse damage. | | Computerized Machines | | Use a surge protector to guard computerized sewing machines from abnormal electrical currents caused by lightning, brown outs and various other sources. | | Clean the computerized sewing machine by brushing under the throat plate and the bobbin. Brushes are typically provided with the machine. Don't blow into your sewing machine. For more thorough cleaning, use a mini-vacuum attachment on a regular vacuum cleaner to pull lint and debris out of the needle area. | | Use a soft lint-free cloth to clean inside the tension discs. | | Some older machines cannot tolerate magnetic pin holders. Check with the manufacturer of the machine to make certain that magnetic devices won't injure the computer board. | | As always, good-quality threads and needles are essential components of sewing machine maintenance. Remember to change the needle frequently. |  | Computerized sewing machines are self-lubricating and do not require oiling, but the machine should be turned on frequently in order for it to self lubricate. Even if you're not sewing frequently, turn the machine on periodically as a part of maintenance. |  | It may be a good idea to invest in a maintenance policy or extended warranty for computerized machines. Look for policies that allow for at least a yearly tuning and maintenance check. | | Sergers | | Sergers need both cleaning and oiling. Be sure to clean the serger thoroughly using either the lint brush that comes with the machine or canned air. Serger threads are typically fuzzy. Use a soft cloth to frequently clean between the tension discs. Clean the machine several times during long sewing sessions and always at the end of every sewing session. | | Replace serger blades occasionally and change needles often. Keep spare blades and needles on hand. | | To oil the machine, turn the hand wheel and oil all the responding moving parts. Oil after every eight hours of use. | | Questions to Ask Your Sewing Machine Dealer | Sewing machines benefit from service on a yearly basis, even if just for a maintenance check to keep the machine in good running order. It is important to know the type of service you can expect from both the manufacturer and the dealer of your machine. Before purchasing your machine, ask your dealer the following questions: - Is the dealer a factory-authorized service representative?
- How long does the dealer offer free service?
- Will dealers in other cities service the sewing machine in case you move?
- How long is the manufacturer responsible for repairs or replacement of defective parts?
- How long will the manufacturer make replacement of parts for a particular model?
- Are any conditions associated with the warranty? Are lessons required? Must you mail in a warranty card? Do you have to bring the machine into the store from which it was purchased for service?
| | | Fun Thimble Facts
|  The thimble has its origin in early civilization. Roughly carved of stone, bronze, bone or ivory, the thimble aided the sewer in pushing crude needles through animal skins to make clothing. Since that time thimbles have been created or made from every material imaginable. The thimble has served many purposes through the ages. During the late 16th century to the early 20th century, thimbles were valued as objects of art. They were given as love tokens during Victorian times in a society that discouraged personal gifts of any nature between men and women. At one time, sterling and gold thimbles were given as an engagement gift from the fianc� to his future bride. The bottom part of the thimble could be cut off and used as the new wife's wedding band when the couple married. Early schoolteachers used thimbles to enforce strict discipline. The teacher would knock the disobedient student on the top of the head with a thimbled finger. The term "thimble knocking" was used by ladies of the evening around the same time period. They used a thimble on their finger to knock on the window glass to attract the attention of males walking by. During the 1800s, a thimble was used as a spirit measure or alcohol shot glass, helping coin the phrase, "Only a thimbleful." During World War I, thimbles became a type of currency. In England approximately 400,000 sterling thimbles were donated and melted down in order to buy much needed hospital equipment. After World War I, thimbles became a popular advertising medium for companies in all areas of manufacturing and services.  One of the most astounding uses of a thimble may have taken place in 1856 when Latimer Clark was testing the first transatlantic cable. After several failed attempts, he borrowed a thimble and added a small amount of acid and zinc creating a miniature electric cell. This thimble generated enough current to send a signal across 3,700 miles in a second. Quite a colorful history for such a tiny sewing tool!
| | Until Next Time ...
| | Next week I'll tell you the right and wrong way to press cloth, information every sewer should know about hand-sewing needles and some new ideas to help you hone your sewing skills. PS -- Tell your friends to visit us and sign up for educational newsletters like this. | | | | Newsletter Specials | | | | | | | | |
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